Retinoids. Love ‘em, hate ‘em, everyone’s heard of ‘em. Retinoids are a tried and true skincare staple for good reason. What can they do for you and why should you consider adding them to your skincare routine?
What is a retinoid?
Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that work as powerful skincare actives. Another widely known vitamin A derivative is the oral medication Isotretinoin, or Accutane. Retinoids are held in high regard because they have clinically proven efficacy for a wide range of skin concerns: wrinkles, pigmentation, skin tone, and even acne. The molecule size is small enough to penetrate the skin even with topical application, making them very effective skincare ingredients.
How does a retinoid work?
Retinoids work by accelerating skin cell turnover when used topically. The average lifespan of a skin cell from formation to sloughing off is about 4 weeks. Retinoids speed up the shedding process dramatically, revealing unobstructed fresh skin and promoting skin cell differentiation. While dead skin cells play an important role in protection, removing them more quickly helps skin turnover, which in turn helps hyperpigmentation fade more quickly, improves skin texture, and helps prevent acne by lifting dead skin cells that could clog pores and become acne comedones. In addition to this “exfoliant effect,” retinoids also have anti-inflammatory properties that are helpful for acne prevention as well are prevention of pigmentation uptake by keratinocytes.
What is the difference between retinol, retinal, and tretinoin?
Retinol, retinal (short for retinaldehyde), and tretinoin are different forms of retinoids. Retinoic acid, aka tretinoin, is the bioavailable form of retinoid that can be used by the body. Different types of retinoids must undergo molecular conversion in the body in order to become bioavailable as retinoic acid; each conversion reduces potency. Retinol must first be converted to retinaldehyde, which is then converted to retinoic acid. Potency in order from least to most potent is: retinol, then retinal, then retinoic acid. Many available over-the-counter retinoid products from various skincare brands contain retinol; tretinoin/retinoic acid tend to be prescription-based.
Other popular retinoids include: adapalene, which tends to be used for acne, and tazarotene. These are synthetic retinoids that were developed later than retin-ol/al/oic acid and may activate different retinoid receptors in the skin.
How to use a retinoid?
Because of the mechanism of action, retinoids can make skin look flaky and dry without proper usage. There may be an initial adjustment period of several weeks up to 12 weeks as skin adjusts to the increased rate of desquamation. This is especially true for prescription-strength retinoids like tretinoin or tazarotene. Retinoids are generally recommended for night usage and should always be paired with SPF. Direct application on wet skin may lead to increased absorption and possibly more irritation. Sparing application is generally enough; more is not necessarily better. Pair with a moisturizer to reduce side effects of flakiness, dryness, or skin irritation.
There are two methods of introducing retinoids to your skincare routine. One is by starting slow and dipping your toe. Pick an OTC version and gradually working up to nightly use or as necessary a few times a week. Layering moisturizer underneath helps cut potential irritation even more.
Alternately, going all in with the understanding that irritation will occur but pass is another method of introducing retinoids. This may be more suitable for stronger retinoids in order to fully maximize their benefits, especially for these with more urgent skin issues. This gets the initial adjustment period over with, but is an aggressive approach that may not be suitable for everyone.
Because retinoids have such a wide range of benefits, they have a place in almost everyone’s skincare routine. If you have questions about retinoids or would like some advice on how to incorporate a retinoid into your routine, give DSC a call!
DSC Laser & Skin Care Center
www.dscbeauty.com
(626) 285-0800
info@dscbeauty.com
889 S. San Gabriel Blvd, San Gabriel, CA 91776
